There’s no shade here, but we think it’s fair to say that while some of what we see on our TikTok feed is mesmerising, it’s not always entirely wearable. Enter underpainting, a viral technique loved by makeup artists for its fresh-faced finish that anyone can master and wear.
What is underpainting?
Underpainting is a makeup application technique that involves applying your contour, blusher and highlighter beneath your foundation, rather than on top like you normally would. The logic? By applying your base last, you dial down the intensity of the pigment in those three products. Topping with a lightweight foundation or tinted moisturiser sheers out your contour product or bronzer, blush and highlighter, so that you’re left with a seamless look with soft shadows and subtle sculpting rather than any harsh stripey lines or bold colours. In other words, it helps make the overall effect more convincing – people are more likely to believe that your cheekbones really are that high and your jawline is really that sharp if they can’t see the tell-tale lines.
How to underpaint your face: A step-by-step guide
In the same way that no-makeup-makeup still requires a fair bit of makeup, underpainting still takes a little time and know-how.
Step 1: Prep your skin
Getting your skin ready for the main event is essential for creating the best possible canvas for underpainting. If the skin is dry, dehydrated or rough, then your makeup will cling in some patches and absorb in others, which will detract from that seamless, blended look we’re hoping to create. Regularly exfoliating with either a manual or chemical exfoliator will banish old skin cells and create a smooth surface, while applying a hydrating serum and moisturiser just before makeup will ensure your skin is suitably plump and juicy.
Step 2: Prime – or don’t
If your base is normally prone to sliding off by lunchtime then you’ll see the value in a primer to improve its staying power. Primers can also do things like illuminate your complexion and blur large pores, so if dullness and a pitted texture are bugbears of yours, then you’ll appreciate a good primer. However, a primer isn’t an essential part of underpainting. It’s all down to personal preference.
Step 3: Start with contour
Contour is your opportunity to really carve out your features and add structure to your face. You want to use this to create the illusion of shadows so that the surrounding areas look more lifted. Swipe your contour around the outer edges of your hairline to frame your forehead, down the sides of your nose, in the hollows of your cheeks and along each side of your jawline – ending where your chin begins. There’s no need to blend at this stage, as you’ll be doing plenty of that later.
Step 4: Add blusher
Blusher will add life and vibrancy to your complexion, giving the illusion of a flushed finish. To make your cheeks look fuller, it’s best to apply the bulk of the colour onto the apples before blending upwards and out. Normally we’d suggest choosing a blusher shade that’s closest to how you naturally blush, but as you’ll be topping with foundation you can go a bit brighter or more pigmented if you prefer.
Step 5: Highlight
Unlike contour which creates shadows, highlighter is your opportunity to shine a light on particular areas of your face in order to accentuate them. Smooth highlighter onto the middle of your forehead, down the bridge of your nose, on the tops of your cheekbones, in the inner corners of your eyes and along the brow bone. Again, there’s no need to blend, as we’ll come to that next.
Step 6: Blend your base
Now for the fun part – adding your base and ‘smooshing’ it all together (in a sophisticated way, of course). Add a few pumps of your chosen base (ideally, a lightweight foundation or a tinted moisturiser) and using a fluffy makeup brush (the kind you’d normally use to apply powder), gently buff the product onto the skin.
If your base is too full coverage then you won’t be able to see the detail in what you’ve just applied beneath. Start with the parts that don’t have any product on them, and then work methodically over the other areas starting with the lightest (the highlighter) and then bronzer and blusher.
If you’re not a tools person, you can achieve the same look with your fingers, or by bouncing a damp beauty sponge onto the skin. Check all angles (the jawline is a commonly forgotten spot) to ensure that everything is perfectly blended and you haven’t missed anywhere.
What do you need in your underpainting kit?
There’s no easel or palette required for this kind of painting, but you do need some supplies. This is everything you need to underpaint your complexion:
Moisturiser to prime your skin for makeup.
Contour or bronzer to draw on those all-important shadows and create a more sculpted look.
Blusher to enhance the natural flush of your cheeks and make sallow complexions look healthier.
Highlighter to illuminate and shine a light on the areas you want to draw attention to.
Lightweight foundation or tinted moisturiser to add coverage to the skin and create a more uniform finish.
Fluffy makeup brush or makeup sponge to blend and buff your base into place. Keep in mind that you might need smaller tools for narrower areas like the sides of your nose.
Does underpainting work with powder?
With underpainting, you’re relying on the formulas melting and merging into one to give you a beautifully blended finish, and you want to opt for cream products. Powders might have the upper hand when it comes to longevity, but they don’t have the second-skin blendability that creams do.
