One of the biggest misconceptions around Retinol is that it shouldn’t be used in the summer, due to the fact it can make your skin more sensitive to the sun. While it’s true that Retinol increases photosensitivity, when used correctly, it actually helps to counteract cumulative skin damage caused by sun exposure and should be a staple in your summer skincare routine.
How Does The Sun Damage Skin?
Before we delve into the magic of Retinol, it’s important to understand what happens to our skin when exposed to the sun. The sun emits ultraviolet (UV) rays, primarily UVA and UVB rays, which damage the skin in three main ways.
Firstly, both UVA and UVB damage the DNA within skin cells by disrupting the bonds and causing mutations during cell division as well as generating free radicals, which indirectly damage skin cells’ DNA, cell membranes and proteins. In the long term, this can lead to skin cancer.
Secondly, UV rays (particularly UVA) cause collagen and elastin in the dermis to break down. Collagen is essential for providing structure and support to the skin and elastin gives it its youthful bounce and flexibility. This breakdown can contribute to wrinkles, leathery texture and sagging.
Finally, UV rays stimulate an inflammatory response within the skin, which manifests as sunburn. It also impairs the skin’s immune response, reducing its ability to detect and repair abnormal cells, further increasing the risk of skin cancer.
Enter Retinol: The Sun Damage Saviour
Retinol is the name given to the most popular over-the-counter Retinoid (Retinoids are a broader class of compounds derived from Vitamin A). Retinoids work by promoting cell turnover, stimulating collagen production, and reducing the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines, and hyperpigmentation as well as helping to unclog pores and prevent acne breakouts - which are all particularly useful benefits during the summer months.
If you’ve accidentally spent too long under the sun, Retinol will help shed the damaged skin cells and promote the production of new, healthy ones, which in turn will help your skin recover faster. This ability to boost cell turnover also comes in handy if you notice your skin feels rough and uneven post-sun exposure.
Retinol is also able to stimulate collagen production, which helps to counteract the breakdown caused by UV rays and maintain skin’s youthful bounce and suppleness. Plus, Retinol helps to fade dark spots and even out skin tone by inhibiting melanin production and promoting cell renewal and regular use can lead to a noticeable reduction in hyperpigmentation.
How do I use Retinol safely during summer?
While Retinol has many benefits to offer, it’s also a potent active ingredient that can make skin more sensitive to the sun. It’s important to incorporate it safely into your skincare routine to avoid any unwanted side effects and potentially cause damage:
Start Slow: If you’re a beginner, start with a lower concentration of Retinol and gradually increase as your skin builds tolerance (although it's worth noting that all of Beauty Pie's Retinols are either slow-release, encapsulated or a Retinol derivative, which dramatically reduces the risk of irritation). Start with a pea-sized amount once or twice a week, then slowly increase frequency until you’re using it daily.
Apply before bed: Due to the fact it makes skin more sensitive to the sun, Retinol should always be applied at nighttime before bed and never in the morning or day time.
Sunscreen is Non-Negotiable: We all know we should wear SPF every day, but if you’re using Retinol in your skincare routine, it’s imperative. You will need a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30. Reapply every two hours, especially if you’re spending extended periods outdoors.
Listen to Your Skin: Pay attention to how your skin responds to Retinol as it can cause dryness, redness, or irritation - although it's worth noting that all of Beauty Pie's Retinols are either slow-release, encapsulated or a Retinol derivative, which dramatically reduces the risk of irritation. If your skin does flare up, you should reduce how often you’re using it and make sure to nourish skin with a hydrating moisturiser.
So, next time you stock up on your SPF, don’t forget to add Retinol to your shopping bag, too. Your skin will thank you for it.
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